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WitSTU.N.Y.  r'.M 

(716)  •72-45 j3 


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CIHM/iCMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inatitute  for  Historical  IMicroreproductions  /  institut  Canadian  de  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  has  anamptad  to  obtain  tha  batt 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  ov  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chacitad  balow. 


Q 


D 


D 


D 

n 


D 


D 


Colourad  covars/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I      I   Covars  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagAa 


Covars  rastorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Couvartura  rastaurte  at/ou  palliculte 


r~1    Covar  titia  missing/ 


La  titra  da  couvartura  manqua 

Colourad  maps/ 

Cartas  giographiquas  an  coulaur 


□   Colourad  ink  (i.e.  othar  than  blua  or  blacic)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 

I      I   Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planchas  at/ou  illustrations  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
RaliA  avac  d'autras  documants 


Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  r9  liura  sarria  paut  causar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
distortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intAriaura 

Blank  laavas  addad  during  rastoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  possibia,  thasa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  sa  paut  qua  cartainas  pagas  blanchas  ajoutias 
lors  d'una  rastauration  apparalssant  dans  la  taxta, 
mais.  lorsqua  cala  itait  possibia.  cas  pagas  n'ont 
pas  *t«  film4)as. 

Additional  commants:/ 
Commantairas  suppiimantairas; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  la  malllaur  axamplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  possibia  da  se  procurer.  Las  dita^s 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  sont  paut-Atra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibliographiqua.  qui  pauvent  modifier 
una  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exigc  une 
modification  dans  la  mithoda  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pagas  da  couleur 

□   Pagas  damaged/ 
Pagas  endommagtes 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


D 


Pagas  rastaurias  at/ou  paliiculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dAcolortes,  tachetAes  ou  piquies 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

0Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  material  supplAmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I     I   Quality  of  print  varies/ 

{~~|   Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I     I   Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiallement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6ti  fiimies  i  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


y 

16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


bJIs 

du 

difiar 

Line 

lage 


Th«  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanka 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Qutbec 
Library 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  beat  quali^ 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  In  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specif ieatlona. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  inding  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  Ail 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  imprftsslon. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
diffc.  «nt  reduction  ratios.  Thoae  too  large  to  be 
entirely  Included  In  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  fiimA  fut  reproduit  grAco  A  ia 
giniroslt*  de: 

Stf  minairt  d«  Qu4b«c 
BibliothAqua 

Les  images  suivantea  ont  itt  roproduites  avec  ie 
plua  grand  solri,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplalres  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprirr  ,f.e  sont  film^s  en  commen^ant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinta 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  Ie  second 
plat,  salon  Ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  on  commenfant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaUra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  la 
caa:  Ie  symbols  — *>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  Ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche.  11  est  flim«  it  partir 
de  I'angle  aupArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'Images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


ita 


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1  2  3 


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4  5  6 


BV  DAYL-IOHT 


Ltva  k  Altkn't  Publ.  IMpt.,  lOT  Ubwty  St.,  N.Y. 


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WRITTEN,  ILLUSTRATED  AND  PRINTED  AT 

LEVE  &  flLDEN'S  PUBLICATION  DEPBRTMENT, 

108  UBERTY  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 

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THE  QUEBEC  CENTRAL  HAILWAY  I[OUTE. 


>HE  drift  of  pleasure  travel,  in  the  early  summer,  tends  to  the 
northward,  the  tide  turning  in  August  and  setting  with  equal 
impetus  back  again  toward  the  great  cities  of  the  Union.    As 

cj  '  it  is  hoped  that  the  following  pages  may  meet  the  reader's  eye 
before  he  has  undertaken  his  dog-day  respite  from  toil,  he  is  invited 
to  meet  the  writer  upon  the  shores  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  which, 
standing  as  it  does,  upon  the  border  marking  the  limits  of  the  Union 
and  Dominion,  may  be  said  to  adorn  the  gateway  to  that  quaint  and 
interesting  region  one  traverses  upon  the  journey  to  Quebec. 

The  mission  of  the  matter  following  is  to  acquaint  the  reader  with  a 
new  route.  To  the  average  traveler  for  pleasure  or  observation  it  is 
enough  to  announce  a  new  way  to  go  anywhere  in  order  to  enlist  his 
interest,  but  there  is  a  far  larger  class  which  demands  reasons  for  aban- 
doning beaten  highways  in  favor  of  more  recent  trails.  Fortunately, 
the  task  of  the  writer  in  the  present  instance  is  an  easy  one;  for  the  rea- 
sons why  the  traveler  should  go  to  or  from  Quebec  by  way  of  the 
Quebec  Central  Bailway  are  plentiful. 

This  line  has  its  southern  terminus  at  the  enterprising  city  of  Sher- 
brooke,  some  forty  miles  beyond  Newport,  the  leading  place  upon  Mem- 
phremagog ;  but  as  it  would  be  a  grievous  mistake  upon  the  part  of  the 
traveler  to  pass  this  mountain-locked  border-lake  by  with  a  mere  glance, 
our  journey  may  properly  begin  upon  American  soil. 

Lake  Memphremagog,  like  most  American  inland  waters,  fills  a  long 
and  narrow  valley,  with  its  outlet  toward  the  north.  It  stretches  its 
irregular  form  some  twenty  miles  from  Newport  to  Magog.  Its  shores 
are  peopled  by  "^he  peaceful  descendants  of  three  races,  and  where,  not 
more  than  a  century  since,  the  cruel  and  aggressive  Iroquois  roved  and 
fished,  a  peaceful,  semi-aquatic,  semi-agricultural  population  is  gathered. 

Two  notable  mountains  are  in  view  from  Newport.  They  rear  their 
bold  outlines  against  the  northern  sky,  and  dip  their  bases  in  the  deep 
waters  of  the  lake.    They  are  Owl's  Head  and  E^Apliaatas.     The  lake 


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is  dotted  with  rocky,  heavily-ehaded  islets,  upon  several  of  which  hand- 
some summer-homes  have  been  built.  All  of  these  islands  are  upon  the 
Canadian  side,  save  that  of  Provence,  which  is  directly  upon  the  line. 
At  Newport  a  large  and  excellent  hotel  attracts  an  army  of  travelers 
during  the  warm  months,  and  beneath  the  shadow  of  Owl's  Head  the 
Mountain  House  stands,  charmingly  picturesque  in  location.  The  large 
and  graceful  (if  a  steamboat  may  ever  merit  the  term)  iron  steamer, 
**  Lady  of  the  Lake,"  traverses  the  lake,  and  gives  daily  round  trips 


SIR  HUGH  ALLAN'S   VILLA. 


during  the  season.  The  morning  express  train,  going  northward  over  the 
Passumpsic  R.  R.,  keeps  the  lake  in  view  for  some  distance;  and  half-an- 
hour  later  meets  another  miniature  sea  in  Lake  Massawippi,  running 
close  to  its  rocky  shores  some  six  miles.  The  stranger  traversing  this 
region  for  the  first  time  will  be  reminded  of  Pennsylvania;  for,  as  the 
city  of  Sherbrooke  is  approached,  or  below  its  batellite  Lennoxville,  at 
Capelton,  he  will  see  upon  the  barren  hill-sides  the  huge  structures  and 
desolate  surroundings  which  are  the  invariable  accompaniment  of  min- 


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LAKB  MABSAWIPPI. 


ing;  copper,  antimony  and  nickel  are  taken  from  these  hills  in  consider- 
able quantities.  One  who  passes  Sherbrooke  without  stopping  over  is 
likely  to  form  a  false  impression  of  its  thrift  and  attractions.  Such,  the 
writer  must  confess,  was  his  case;  but  a  subsequent  visit  led  him  up  the 
hill-side  and  beyond  a  long  coniiuercial  street  and  the  market-place, 
across  a  bridge  spanning  the  wild  Magog  river,  just  where  it  pours 
down  in  a  splendid  final  plunge  before  meeting  the  St.  Francis.  Here 
are  finer  structures.  A  granite  Bank,  a  goodly  hotel,  and  a  vista  of 
pleasing  homes  ;  at  the  end  of  the  street  one  looks  down  upon  the  valley 
of  the  river  with  a  fore-ground  of  handsome  private  grounds  to  com- 
plete the  picture.  How  the  Canadians  love  flowers,  and  make  the  most 
of  their  short  but  beautiful  summers! 

Turning  up  a  side  street  leading  from  the  market-place,  five  minutes' 
walk  takes  one  past  a  big  mill,  in  full  clatter  and  hum  of  work,  to  a ; 
slender  foot-bridge  at  the  head  of  a  deep  and  picturesque  cafion,  where 
the  contracted  Magog  pours  a  fierce  torrent  down  from  leap  to  leap, 
among  broken  masses  of  rock,  and  between  high  walls  crowned  with^ 
dark  pines. 


Large  ecoleiiastio  buildings  stand,  as  the  fashion  is  in  Canada,  upon  the 
highest  hill-top,  the  spires  looming  up  like  exclamation  points. 

Shorbrooke  claims  a  population  of  9,000  Ift  largest  industry  is  the 
Paton  mill,  which  employs  some  five  hundred  hands,  turning  out  a  make 
of  tweed  which  is  famous  in  the  trade.  There  are  also  a  file- works  and 
a  number  of  lesser  factories. 


THK  MAOOO  RITDR. 

These  mills  are  operated  by  water  power. 

The  exit  from  Sherbrooke,  in  going  to  Quebec,  is  likely  to  mystify  the 
traveler,  for  he  finds  himself  speeding  along,  for  some  miles,  past  scenes 
noted  in  his  approach  from  the  south.  He  may  possibly  experience  that 
painful  sensation  that  accompanies  the  suspicion  that  he  has  taken  the 
wrong  train.  At  Lennoxville,  however,  the  road  bears  away  to  the  left, 
and,  crossing  the  St.  Francis  river  upon  a  substantial  bridge,  begins  to 


8 


climb  the  heights  that  skirt  its  course.  In  half  -an-hour  or  less  a  birdV 
eye  view  of  Lennoxville  is  enjoyed,  the  train,  by  some  mysterioua 
doubling  upon  its  course,  Raving  taken  a  horse-shoe  bend  virhile  we  were 
admiring  the  pluck  of  the  farmers  who  have  conquered  the  rough  face 
of  nature  so  well  upon  these  upland  slopes. 
Along  the  St.  Francis  river  the  farm-houses  and  their  dependent  build- 
ings are  substantial,  and  the  chimneys 
large,  telling  of  wise  provision  for  the  long 
and  severe  winters  endured.  Still  further 
along  the  line  the  iroA  way  traverses  a  series 
of  deep  ravines,  whore  little  creeks,  per- 
chance raging  torrents  in  their  season,  lead 
down  to  the  St.  Francis,  which  sparkles  and 
eddies  far  below,  as  we  catch  glimpses  of  it 


THB  ST.  FRANCIS  RIVER. 


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through  the  woods.  A  vast  amount  of  money  has  been  spent  here,  and 
an  army  of  workmen  are  still  engaged  in  improving  and  grading.  The 
ascent  is  heavy,  and  our  stout  locomotive  puffs  like  a  tired  steied  as  it 
climbs  the  hill. 

There  is  a  wide  place  in  the  river,  called  in  the  local  parlance  the 
Basin,  a  g^reat  cauldron-like  place,  which  catches  the  river  as  it  comes 


I  THK  BASIK,  ST.  FRANCIS  RIVKR. 

dashing  along,  and  whirls  it  about  for  a  time  before  it  releases  its  waters 
to  flow  onward. 

Now  we  are  in  the  wilderness.  Most  of  the  homes  are  roughly  hewn 
log-huts,  and  nearly  all  so  new  that  they  seem  to  have  been  built  but 
yesterday.  The  secluded  inhabitants  cut  wood  for  the  railway,  and  long 
reaches  of  it  are  stacked  up  beside  the  track. 

There  is  something  majestic  in  these  vast  expanses  of  almost  unbroken 
forests,  and,  too,  something  to  admire  in  the  sturdy  enterprise  which 
opens  them  to  the  settler,  whose  axe  is  just  beginning  to  show  its  im- 
print upon  the  scene. 
f     At  Garthby  a  new  town  is  found.    Lake  Aylmer  is  a  broad  and  ir- 


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regular  sheet,  1x>rdered  by  dense  woodlands;  and  it  is  upon  that  portion 
of  it  called  Ward's  Bay  that  Garthby  stands. 

Oarthby,  as  las  been  stated,  is  new.  Its  small  but  active  population 
is  busy  enough,  ranging  new  houses  along  the  street  leading  up  the 
hill ;  breaMng  ground  for  new  fields,  and  putting  up  fences.  A  Cana- 
dian firm  has  just  completed  a  steam  saw-mill  upon  the  shore,  as  large 
and  almost  as  fine  as  a  church.  A  new  steamboat  is  moored  at  the  new 
wharf,  and  it  is  easy  to  imagine,  as  one  sits  upon  the  hill-side,  the  future 


I 


bull's  head  falls,  near  d'israbli.  I^TO 


{-■'•■rrn 


.-(   V:  iSi.>3.iii 


of  G^a^thby,  when  a  handsome  tourist  hotel  shall  stand  upon  the  shore, 
and  it  shall  become  what  nature  seems  to  have  intended  it  for,  a  sum- 
mering resort.  .  . ; ,  ^^ .  .  , 

Disraeli,  five  miles  above,  is  another  brand  niew  place.  It,  too,  has 
its  lake,  but  hardly  larger  than  a  mill-pond.  Back  in  the  woods,  half-a- 
mile  or  so,  Bull's  Head  Falls  are  found,  and  when  the  writer  trudged 
along  the  road  leading  thereto,  upon  a  sketch-hunting  expedition,  ho 
was  piloted  by  the  good-natured  owner  of  the  miU  that  stands  by  the 
cascade,  filling  the  air  with  the  fragrance  of  new-sawn  pine. 


lis 


Black  Lake  is  Been  upon  the  left, 
just  beyond  Coleraine.  A  range  of 
rooky  hills  hem  in  its  farther  bor- 
der,  and  its  more  remote  reaches 
are  nearly  obscured  by  the  bluo 
smoke  of  burning  forests  as  we 
pass  along  its  shores. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting 
feature  upon  the  whole  route  is 
found  at  Thetf ord. 

Thetford  looks  like  a  town  of 
huts  set  upon  a  volcano.  The 
charred  forms  of  burned  trees  lie 
where  they  fell.  Earth  and  rock 
are  heaped  up  in  uncanny  masses. 
The  houses  of  Thetford  stand  at 
defiance  of  all  rules  of  the  com- 
pass, each  owner  evidently  locating 
as  he  chose.  One  is  led  to  marvel 
that  any  human  being  should 
locate  in  such  an  entirely  for- 
bidding spot,  and  yet  Thetford  is 
a  necessity.  Along  the  gray  ridge 
of  rock,  beside  the  ^own,  are  the 
open  quarries  where  that  myste- 
rious mineral,  known  in  trade  as 
asbestos,  is  found.  It  exists  in 
seams  shot  through  the  hard  ser- 
pentine rock,  which  is  blasted  out 
and  hammered  into  ff'agments  to 
obtain  this  valuable  non-conductor 
of  heat.  Just  how  nature  deposited 
this  curious  substance  seems  to  be 
a  mystery.  Its  fibrous  texture 
renders  it  valuable  in  a  hundred 
ways,  and  new  uses  are  constantly 
being  discovered  for  it.  Steam- 
pipes  are  siieathed  with  it ;  roofs 
are  covered  to  renuer  them  fire- 
proof. It  is  spun  with  other  fibres 
into  cloth  that  will  not  burn. 


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The  writer  has  seen  a  glove,  soft,  pliable  and  warm,  spun  from  the 
pure  asbestos,  which  enables  its  wearer  to  handle  red-hot  coals  with 
perfect  freedom,  and  which  is  washed  by  simply  being  thrown  into  the 
stove,  where  the  dirt  is  burned  off,  leaving  the  glove  snowy  white.  The 
idea  suggests  itself  that  such  a  glove  would  prove  vastly  useful  in  en- 
abling some  enterprisini^  folks  to  safely  remove  their  *'  chestnuts  from 
the  fire." 


I  # 


A  FRENCH-CANADIAN  HOME. 


Other  asbestos  mines  are  being  opened  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  product 
is  already  quite  large.  All  of  the  mineral  mined  at  Thetford  is  put  into 
bags  and  shipped  to  Boston  or  Europe,  where  it  is  worked  up.  Soon 
after  leaving  the  mines  we  cross  the  highland,  and  roll  down  the  grade 
leading  to  the  broad  Chaudiere  valley.  The  traveler  is  at  once  struck 
with  the  vast  maze  of  fences,  and  the  curioup  ribbon-like  farms  which 
stretch  up  the  hill  in  variegated  stripes,  as  the  harvest  ripens  in  long. 


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narrow  patches.  These  are  the  "Seigniories,**  which  have  passed  from 
one  generation  to  another  with  but  few  changes  in  boundary.  These 
humble  French-Canadians,  whose  whole  life  is  bounded  by  their  visual 
hodzon,  are  not  given  to  trading  in  real  estate,  and  but  little  to  migra- 
tion. 

Rolling  across  the  bridge  at  Beauce  Junction,  we  make  a  closer  ac- 
quaintance with  the  curious  homes  of  the  natives.  Their  houses,  always 
neat  to  a  fault,  are  heavily  built,  and  sometimes  sheathed  upon  the 
"windward"  side  with  birch  bark,  which  givea  them  the  effect,  at  a 
little  distance,  of  variegated  blocks  of  stone.  A  huge  chimney  f^t  one 
end  is  cased  iri  with  wood.    The  roof,  always  steep,  has  an  upward 

''pitch  at  the  eaves.  The  windows  are  small,  and  furnished  with  an  inner 
and  an  outer  set  of  glass.  The  interior  is  plain,  the  display  of  house- 
hold color  always  centering  around  a  little  niche  where  a  crucifix 
c ''tests  the  devotion  of  the  family.  Crt>sses  are  often  seen  in  the 
fields  and  by  the  wayside,  a  mute  appeal  to  the  Deity  for  good  crops 
and  continued  health.  i 

Every  village  has  its  roomy  church  structure,  which,  as  m  Maxico,  is 

■  the  chief  feature  of  the  hamlet.  The  pointed  spires'  and  roofs  are 
always  sheathed  in  glittering  metal.  * 

'  The  "  habitants  "  who  make  short  journeys  by  rail  are  accompanied 
1»  the  stations  by  their  friends  and  relatives.  One  hears  but  little  Eng- 
lish. A  constant  clatter  of  patois  is  kept  up  by  the  native  passengers, 
who  also  show  a  strong  desire  to  express  themselves  in  song.  ' , 
'.  At  Beauce  Junction,  a  line  is  met  which  leads  southward  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Chaudiere,  and  thence  through  the  Maine  wilds  to  the 
Kennebec  river,  thus  connecting  with  the  Maine  system  of  railroads. 

fhrough  the  Chaudiere  valley  the  absence  of  woodlands  is  notice- 
able. All  of  the  lands  seem  in  demand  for  tillage  or  pasturage,  and 
,the  universal  fencing-in  of  the  small  possessions  of  each  owner,,  who 
seems  to  sub-divide  his  farm  as  often  as  possible,  makes  the  country 
look  like  a  vast  stock-yard,  and  would  cause  a  westerner,  accustomed 
to.  the  broad  areas  of  the  Occident,  to  laugh  his  buttons  off.       \    \ 

.,That  modem  abomination,  the  barb-wire  fence,  has  not  as  yet 
reached  this  land  of  steady  habits. 

The  Chaudiere  is  crossed  again  a  short  distance  above  its  great  falls, 
and  in  a  half  hour  the  citadel  of  Quebec  looms  up  ahead.  The  visitor 
taking  this  route  during  the  coming  season,  will  x>robal^ly  be  conveyed 
down  to  Point  Levis  in  a  carriage,  but  ere  long  the  line  will  have  its 


16 


O 


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" 


approach  and  depdts  completed,  thus  meeting  the  river  at  a  point  oppo- 
site Montmorenci  Falls. 

One's  entri  into  the  fine  old  city  of  Quebec,  as  the  heavy  ferryboat 
brings  him  to  the  dock  in  the  lower  town,  is  quite  in  keeping  wi^  the 
foireign,  continental  atmosphere  about  him.  A  lively,  pertinacious  f 
bevy  of  caleche  drivers  make  an  onslaught  upon  the  new-comer.  If  he 
hesitates,  he  is  lost,  but  if  wise  he  will  hand  his  valise  to  the  porter  of 
the  St.  Louis,  and  climbing  into  the  omnibus,  he  will  be  rattled  along 
through  the  narrow  streets  and  up  a  st«ep  hill,  under  the  frowning. 


■     -■■    :i- 
.    ' .   .  ■.■■/ 


THE  WALLS  OF  QUEBEC. 


r^^'^t^i'A  vj^H-v^jv  t 


>ri.'i 


' ,i^'d\f  ::ti'ii  '■  *:^i{:is 


gray,  time-stained  walls  of  the  upper  town,  then  through  its  gate  and 
past  the  terrace  to  the  hotel,  the  only  house  in  town  catering  to  pleas- 
ure travel. 

When  Quebec  is  to  be  considered,  one  drops  into  the  past  as  naturally 
and  gracefully  as  the  late  Mr.  Silas  Wegg  dropped  into  poetry. 

Quebec  stands  like  a  fragment  of  the  old  world — like  a  creation  of 
the  contentious  feudal  ages  stranded  upon  the  shores  of  a  new  conti- 
nent.   We  have  nothing  else  like  it  in  the  land,  and  the  wonder  is  that 


18 


a  place  so  magnificent  iu  its  seat  upon  this  roi^kj  cJ.iff,  so  invested  with 
the  history  of  four  races,  standing  as  it  does  \7ithin  a  day's  journey  of 
the  city  of  New  York,  should  not  have  become  the  Mecct»  of  a  far 
greater  army  of  travelers  long  ago. 
In  our  busy,  driving  present,  in- 
tent as  all  are  upon  questions  in- 
volving the  almighty  dollar,  we 
find  but  little  time  to  devote  to 
research  among  the  by-ways '  of 
the  past ;  but  coming  generations 
will  hold  Quebec  in  higher  esteem 
than  we  do,  and  doubtless  they 
will  find  bigger  and  finer  hotels 
there  than  now  exist.  Indeed,  it 
is  understood  that  the  Russell 
Hotel  Company  will  shortly  begin 
the  construction  of  a  splendid  cara- 
vansary, facing  upon  Dufferin 
Terrace.  If  this  is  done,  it  will  give 
the  mosv  superb  view  from  its  por- 
tals enjoyed  by  any  hotel  upon  the 
continent. 

Quebec  and  its  vicinity  are  rich 
in  points  of  genuine  interest.  The 
most  popular  rallying-point  in  the 
city  is  the  broad  Dufferin  Terrace. 
Here,  upon  the  warm  summer 
evenings,  the  scene  partakes  of  the 
beauty  of  a  carnival.  A  wealth  of 
color  and  variety  of  costume  passes 
before  the  eye,  and  fine  military 
music  is  rendered  by  the  band  at- 
tached to  the  garrison.  From  the 
railing  along  the  verge  of  the  cliff 
upon  the  Terrace,  one  may  look 
down  into  the  active  water-front 
life   of  the  town   below,    or   let  bbkaknkck  stairs. 

the  eye  range  over  the  broid   expanse  of  the  noble  river,   dotted 
with  vessels  of  every  si2;e  and  form,  from  the  huge  trans-Atlantic 


na 


10 

steamship  to  the  slow-moving  barge,  with  its  dingy  square  sail  spread 
to  the  breeze. 

Along  the  St.  Louis  and  St.  Foy  roads,  one  comes  upon  the  finest 
suburban  homes  of  the  leading  classes.  It  is  the  fashion  for  travelers 
uj  'Inva  out  by  one  road  and  return  by  another.  A  fine  ride  takes  one 
to  the  superb  Falls  of  Montmorenci.  It  leads  through  the  rambling 
and  quaint  village  of  Beauport,  whose  snowy,  neat  homes  dot  the  entire 
route.  From  the  bank,  upon  the  lower  side  of  ^he  fall,  a  grand  view  of 
the  river  and  city  may  be  enjoyed.    It  will  richly  repay  the  traveler,  if 


'        ■  <  A  QUBBBO  YIBTA. 

blessed  with  good  lungs,  to  descend  the  long  flight  of  stairs  leading  to 
the  foot  of  the  fall. 

In  the  winter  time,  a  great  cone  of  ice  is  frequently  formed  by  the 
spray  from  the  fall,  and  the  Canadians,  hardy  in  all  their  sports,  use  it 
for  coasting,  or  ••  tobogganing." 

A  curious  feature  of  the  city,  not  to  be  missed  by  the  stranger,  is  the 
fine  shaft  in  "Governor's  Garden,"  facing  the  Terrace,  some  sixty-five 
feet  in  height,  erected  to  the  joint  memory  of  the  commanders  of  op- 
posin^T  armies — Wolfe  and  Montcalm — both  of  whom  fell  in  the  strife. 
The  W3rld,  probably,  does  not  furnish  a  parallel  case. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham,  where  the  battle  was  fought  which  gave  the 
cause  for  the  monument  spoken  of,  are  much  visited  ;  and  lastly,  but 
not  by  any  means  the  least  in  importance,  is  the  citadel  itself — a  mili- 


90 


tary  city  upon  a  mountain — where  the  visitor  is  escorted  by  a  polite 
and  attentive  soldier  through  the  various  hospitals,  store-houses,  case- 
mates and  other  structures  filling  the  interior  of  the  massive  fortress. 
The  dress  parade  of  the  brightly-uniformed  regulars  is  always  an  attrac- 
tive sight. 

The  boats  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  line  of  steamers  leave 
early  in  the  morning  of  each  week-day  in  the  season.  Passing  to  the 
westward  of  the  Isle  of  Orleanfl,  a  fine  view  of  the  Falls  of  Montmo>  ^ 


XONTOALlf'S  HEAD<iUARTER8. 

renci  is  enjoyed,  and  far  ahead  the  bold  outline  of  Cape  Tourmente 
looms  up.  All  day  long  the  rugged  Laurentian  Hills  are  upon  the  left, 
and  the  river  widens  until  its  further  shore  is  but  a  dim  outline.  Mur- 
ray Bay,  a  lower  Canadian  Long  Branch,  is  the  objective  point  with  , 
many  of  the  voyagers.  It  sits  in  picturesque  style  upon  the  hill-side; 
and  the  crowd  of  gay  folks  upon  the  wharf,  waiting  for  the  coming  of. 
the  boat,  seem  to  be  having  a  very  enjoyable  time.  rT 

Cacouna  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance  as  a  summer  resort. 
It  is  upon  the  south-eastern  shore,  and  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Saguenay.  r..  mam 


.!♦ 


The  bathing  upon  the  lower 
8ide  of  the  river,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Cacouna,  is  said  to  be  much 
more  comfortable  than  upon 
the  left  shore.  This  is  due  to 
the  counter-current  of  cold 
water  running  in  from  the 
Arctic  sea. 

Tadousac  stands  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Haguenay.  The 
steamer-landing  is  located 
upon  the  latter  river,  about  a 
mile  from  the  village.  A 
hotel  of  considerable  propor- 
tions fronts  upon  a  wide  cres- 
cent beach,  and  a  bevy  of 
handsome  summer-homes  are 
seen  in  the  g^ves  a  little 
removed  to  the  right.  A  very 
little  and  very  old  church 
stands  close  to  the  hotel,  and 
is  usually  open  to  visitors. .   At  the  landing,  the  Dominion  government 


▲  ST.   LAWRBNCB  UOBT-HOU8B. 


TADOUSAC. 


■N**' 


maintains  a  fish-hatching  establishment  for  the  propagation  of  salmon, 
many  fine  specimens  of  which  may  be  seen.  A  museum,  incidental  to 
the  fishery  interests,  occupies  the  upper  floor. 

The  wild  and  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Saguenay  has  bcon  de> 
scribed  by  a  hundred  pens.  From  its  mouth  to  the  far  northern  village 
of  Chicoutimi,  it  presents  bold  promontories  or  precipitous  walls,  which 
attain  'an  elevation  at  some  points  of  not  less  than  one  thousand  six 
hundred  feet. 

As  the  round  tour  of  the  Saguenay  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence  river 
may  be  made  upon  a  comfortable  steamer  in  two  days,  starting  from 
Quebec,  the  reader  is  strongly  advised  to  include  it  in  his  tour  when  he 
has  reached  the  ancient  city. 


---      "■vfij. 


a 


CHICOCTmi. 


In  conclusion,  the  writer  cannot  refrain  from  again  expressing  his 
conviction  that  the  day  is  near  at  hand  when  the  beautiful  forest- 
environed  lakes,  which  have  slept  amid  the  rocky  hills  of  the  lower 
French-Canadian  region,  until  recently  undisturbed  by  any  human 
sound  save  the  lumberman's  axe  or  the  rifle-shot  of  the  adventurous- 
native  huntsman,  will  speedily  become  a  favorite  resort  with  the  sports- 
man and  tourist.    As  yet,  the  gamey  bass  and  swift  pickerel  are  hardly 


■r 


acquainted  with  the  wiles  of  the  angler,  and  are  as'^'keen  after  hb 
sedactive  bait  as  the  most  ardent  disciple  of  the  gentle  art  could 
wish. 

The  wild  and  turbulent  8t.  Francis  River — the  impetuous' Magog,  met 
at  Sherbrooke — the  peaceful  vale  of  the  Chaudiere,   and  the  grand 


■J^f:?:,  >. 


tmi: 


,  ■.■^*i-*v--\-';-. V-,-, ''"    '■■ 


A  SAGUENAY  ABORIGINE. 


'r, .    I- 
Ml, 


approach  to  the  walled  city  of  the  North,  are  things  which  linger  in 
the  memory  of  the  appreciative  traveler  long  after  the  impressions 
were  made  by  the  actual  tour. 

The  capitalist,  keen-eyed  and  alert  for  profitable  fields  of  investment, 
will  gain  suggestions  of  value  by  a  survey  of  the  natural  riches  and 


24 


HA  HA  BAT. 


material  possibilities  of  the  region  traversed  by  the  Quebec  Central 
Railway;  and  the  invalid,  debilitated  by  the  impure  atmosphere  of  the 
city  or  the  heavy  air  of  the  coast,  will  find  the  climate  bracing,  dry  and       / 
health-giving.  t^ 


A  FREKUH-OANADIAN  TUBN-OCT.     }^tO       '«      ;  ,#ts;,-Hr^,.ti 

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